UNIVERSAL  PORTLAND  CEMENT  CO. 

CHICAGO —PITTSBURGH—  MINNEAPOLIS 


Concrete  in  the  Barnyard 


BY  THE  INFORMATION  BUREAU 

Universal  Portland  Cement  Co. 

CHICAGO— PITTSBURGH— MINNEAPOLIS 


CONTENTS 

Page 

Notes  on  the  Construction  of  Concrete  Floors ....  5 

Feeding  Floors 7 

Hog  Wallows 8 

Barnyard  Pavements 8 

Dairy  Barn  Floors 10 

Hog  House  Floors 13 

Stock  Tanks 14 

Small  Troughs 18 

Manure  Pits 20 

Barnyard  Walls 28 

Requirements  for  Certified  Milk  Production 30 


5-1-14-300M— D. 


Copyright  1914,  by  Universal  Portland  Cement  Co. 


Second  Edition 


Figure  1.  Concrete  Feeding  Floor  with  curbs,  aprons  and  gutters. 


DIRECT  GIF 


pi 

^ G 30.  Z 

Concrete  in  the  Barnyard 

Introductory . A manufacturer  with  a clean,  well  arranged  and  well 
equipped  establishment  often  receives  a handsome  dividend  while  his 
competitor  with  a poorly  fitted,  unsanitary  factory  loses  money.  It  is 
the  same  in  the  business  of  farming.  Clean,  well  equipped  and  handily 
arranged  barnyard  and  buildings  tend  to  bring  financial  success. 

The  progressive,  business-like  farmer  modernizes  his  farm  with  con- 
crete foundations  under  the  barn,  concrete  floors  and  good  drainage. 
After  these  improvements  comes  a concrete  hog  wallow  and  the  floor 
is  extended  until  it  covers  the  entire  barnyard.  Then  must  come  a con- 
crete stock  tank  and  manure  pit  and  a concrete  wall  to  protect  stock 
from  winter  winds. 

Cleanliness . On  the  farm  producing  milk  or  butter,  these  improve- 
ments are  necessary  for  convenience  and  common  cleanliness  and,  in 
some  states,  are  made  compulsory  by  law.  Health  officers  have  raised 
to  a remarkable  degree  the  standards  of  cleanliness  in  barns  and  barn- 
yards and,  therefore,  in  the  product,  with  consequent  rise  in  the  prices 
obtained  by  the  farmer.  Profits  are  largely  dependent  upon  proper 
feeding  and  care  and  if  stock  do  well  in  dirty,  unsanitary  surroundings 
it  is  in  spite  of  the  filth. 

Proof  Against  Rodents . Rats,  mice  and  other  rodents  are  germ  dis- 
tributers and  troublesome  where  grain  is  stored  or  fed  to  animals.  While 
wood  floors  harbor  these  pests,  concrete  floors  prevent  them  for  they 


Figure  2.  Concrete  feeding  floor  on  the  farm  of  Ed.  Kearns,  Naperville,  111. 


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Concrete  in  the  Barnyard 


cannot  gnaw  through  concrete  nor  will  chaff  or  grain  work  through. 
Concrete  floors,  therefore,  protect  stock  from  contagious  diseases  carried 
by  rodents  and  prevent  loss  of  grain. 

Permanence . A concrete  floor  is  built  only  once  and  is  comparatively 
inexpensive.  It  will  pay  for  itself  in  a short  time  in  the  saving  of  feed 
and  labor.  This  is  true  of  a barn  or  other  building  floor,  a feeding  floor 
or  a barnyard  pavement.  A concrete  floor  can  be  laid  as  cheaply  as 
oak  planks  and  2x8  inch  stringers. 

Simplicity . The  farmer  does  not  need  to  be  an  expert  concrete  worker 
to  modernize  his  barn.  The  principles  of  good  construction  with  concrete 
are  simple  and  the  work  may  be  built  a little  at  a time  as  regular  farm 
duties  will  permit.  Certainly  no  more  work  is  involved  in  building  perma- 
nently with  concrete  than  would  be  required  to  build  and  keep  in  repair 
any  structure  of  wood  and  the  cost  of  concrete  will  in  the  end  be  less 
than  that  of  wood. 

Cost . The  following  are  approximate  cost  figures  for  floors:  Suppose 
you  are  to  lay  100  square  feet  of  5-inch  concrete  floor  using  a mixture  of 
1:2:3,  with  cement  costing  $2.00  per  barrel  and  sand  and  gravel  at  50c 
per  cubic  yard.  A 1 :2 :3  mixture  means  that  the  concrete  is  mixed  in  the 


Figure  3.  Comer  of  a Concrete  barnyard  pavement  which  is  also  used  as  a feeding  floor.  A 
clean,  convenient,  and  economical  place  to  feed  animals  and  a great  labor  saver  for  the  owner. 


Universal  Portland  Cement  Co. 


proportion  of  1 sack  of  cement,  2 cubic  feet  of  sand  and  3 cubic  feet  of 
screened  gravel.  The  materials  will  then  figure  out  about  as  follows: 

Cement,  11  sacks  (2%  bbls.) 

Sand,  1 cubic  yard 

Gravel , 1 34  cubic  yards 

The  total  cost  of  these  will  come  to  about  $6.60.  It  will  be  necessary, 
sometimes,  to  lay  the  concrete  on  a 6-inch  fill  or  sub-base  of  gravel  or 
cinders  which  may  bring  the  cost  up  to  slightly  more  than  this  figure. 

If  you  buy  sand  and  gravel,  which  is  not  always  necessary,  and  if  the 
ground  requires  that  a sub-base  be  put  in,  the  price  will  be  more  than  6 
cents  per  square  foot.  If  you  have  sand  and  gravel  near  by  and  a filler 
is  not  needed  the  cost  will  run  much  less. 


The  Construction  of  Concrete  Floors 

Sub-base  for  Inside  Floors.  Whether  or  not  to  use  a sub-base  under 
a concrete  floor  depends  on  the  nature  of  the  soil  and  upon  whether  the 
floor  is  indoors  and  protected,  or  outdoors  and  subject  to  frost.  In  inside 
work  where  the  ground  is  firm  and  thoroughly  settled  a sub-base  is  unnec- 
essary but  the  ground  must  be  compact  and  moisture  must  not  go  below 
the  finished  floor  if  there  is  a possibility  of  freezing.  If  a sub-base  is 
not  used  the  ground  should  be  sprinkled  with  water  and  compacted  with 
a tamper.  But  if  it  is  necessary  to  fill  in  the  space  below  the  floor  with 
loose  dirt  a sub-base  is  advisable.  Ordinarily  6 to  8 inches  of  gravel 
is  sufficient.  This  should  be  compacted  and  leveled  off  before  laying  the 
floor. 

Sub-base  for  Exposed  Floors.  For  outside  work,  if  the  soil  is  heavy 
and  holds  water,  a gravel  sub-base  is  necessary  and  no  matter  what  kind  of 
earth  is  to  be  covered,  a sub-base  is  necessary  if  the  ground  is  so  sloped 
that  surface  water  can  run  down  below  the  floor.  Yet  with  a good,  natural 
drainage  and  a loose  soil  a sub-base  is  not  needed. 

For  outside  work,  the  gravel  or  cinders  should  be  8 inches  deep  and 
well  compacted  by  wetting  and  tamping. 

Floor  Forms.  Floor  forms  must  be  placed  carefully.  Make  them  of 
2 x 4’s  or  larger  planks,  held  rigidly  in  place  by  strong  stakes  set  close 
enough  together  so  that  the  forms  will  not  bulge.  The  floor  should  have 
a pitch  or  slope  of  }/$  to  %-moh.  1°  the  foot  to  drain  properly. 

Drainage.  Besides  pitching  the  floor,  avoid  dips  or  hollows  in  the 
surface  in  which  water  would  stand.  Make  the  floor  drain  to  a gutter 
along  the  middle  or  along  one  side  and  keep  the  surface  free  from  hollows 
by  using  a straightedge  across  the  floor  forms.  The  kind  of  gutter  or  drain 
will  be  explained  later  as  it  varies  with  the  type  of  floor. 

Thickness,  Mixture  and  Consistency.  Single  course  floors  for  farm 
buildings  should  be  5 to  6 inches  thick  with  concrete  mixed  in  the  propor- 
tions of  1 sack  of  cement  to  2 cubic  feet  of  coarse,  clean  sand  and  3 cubic 
feet  of  screened  gravel  or  crushed  stone.  For  two-course  floors  use  a 
1:3:5  mixture  in  the  base  and  provide  a % to  1-inch  top  coat  of  cement 


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Concrete  in  the  Barnyard 


mortar.  Mix  this  in  the  proportion  of  1 sack  of  cement  to  2 cubic  feet  of 
sand. 

For  single  course  work  use  enough  water  so  that  the  concrete  is  ‘‘quaky.” 
It  will  then  need  little  tamping.  If  a top  coat  of  rich  mortar  is  to  be 
put  on,  the  first  course  should  be  stiffer  and  then  it  will  need  sound  tamp- 
ing to  make  the  concrete  compact  and  bring  the  water  to  the  surface. 

Single  Course  Work . For  floors  of  barns,  hog  and  poultry  houses,  sheep 
sheds  and  ice  houses,  one  course  work  is  to  be  recommended.  In  this  case 
the  entire  slab  is  placed  at  one  time  and  the  top  finished  off  with  a 
wooden  trowel.  A mortar  coat  as  used  for  sidewalks  is  not  put  on  but 
a small  amount  of  mortar  may  be  spread  over  the  surface  if  necessary  to 
trowel  the  surface  smooth.  It  is  good  practice  to  brush  the  concrete 
with  a broom  before  it  is  hard,  so  as  to  give  a better  footing  for  animals 
along  runways  and  in  the  stalls. 

Surface  Coat . Mangers  and  gutters  are  improved  by  giving  a thin 
coat  of  cement  mortar  and  finishing  with  a steel  trowel.  Trowelling 
draws  the  cement  and  finer  sand  particles  to  the  top,  making  the  surface 
smooth,  but  too  much  of  this  treatment  causes  checking  and  should  be 
avoided. 

Floors  of  milk  houses  and  creameries  should  be  finished  in  this  way, 
making  the  surface  coat  1 inch  thick.  You  must  not  fail  to  put  on  the 
finished  coat  before  the  concrete  forming  the  body  of  the  floor  is  hard  and 
dry.  If  it  should  become  dry  you  must  clean  and  wet  it  thoroughly 
before  putting  on  the  mortar.  If  you  are  working  during  hot  weather 
you  should  protect  the  floor  for  several  days  to  prevent  drying  out.  Wet 
straw  is  a good  protection  but  it  should  not  be  put  on  until  the  concrete 
has  begun  to  set  or  it  will  mark  the  surface.  Keep  the  straw  damp  for  a 
week  or  ten  days.  This  is  especially  necessary  for  outside  floors  exposed 


Figure  4.  Where  corn  is  fed  at  the  Bureau  County  (111.)  Infirmary. 


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Universal  Portland  Cement  Co. 


to  the  sun.  If  working  in  freezing  weather  heated  materials  should  be  used 
and  the  work  covered  with  straw  or  manure  for  a week  or  ten  days.* 

* Expansion  and  Contraction . Do  not  build  concrete  floors  inside 
buildings  without  cutting  up  into  squares  10  feet  or  less  in  both  directions 
and  for  outdoor  floors  do  not  make  the  squares  larger  than  6 feet  in  either 
dimension.  This  prevents  cracking  as  a result  of  any  unequal  settlement 

* or  through  expansion  and  contraction  due  to  changing  temperatures.  The 
lines  of  division  must  extend  through  the  entire  depth  of  the  slab,  as  a 
line  marked  on  the  surface  will  do  no  good  whatever. 

Feeding  Floors 

Advantages . Experienced  hog  raisers  say  that  a good  concrete  floor 
will  pay  for  itself  in  a season,  and  that  it  will  remain  a permanent  improve- 
ment and  a perpetual 
protection  against  hog 
cholera  and  other  dis- 
ease germs  which  in- 
fest wooden  floors. 

Experts  of  several 
State  Agricultural 
Colleges  estimate  that 
a concrete  floor  will 
effect  a saving  of  1/3 
in  feed  and  that  the 
hogs  will  gain  weight 
faster  because  they  do 
not  have  to  pick  up 
a large  quantity  of 
dirt  with  their  feed. 

Although  it  is  com- 
mon practice  to  feed 
pigs  within  the  hog  house  it  is  a better  plan  to  build  a feeding  floor  apart 
from  the  house.  This  gives  them  some  exercise  and  helps  to  keep  them 
healthy. 

The  feeding  floor  may  be  of  any  shape  but  most  farmers  prefer  a square 
floor.  It  should  have  sunlight  all  day  long.  Fifty  pigs  require  a floor  at 
least  24  x 36.  This  allows  18  square  feet  of  floor  per  hog  and  you  can 
figure  out  from  this  the  necessary  area  for  your  drove.  It  is  not  con- 
venient or  economical  to  build  less  than  100  square  feet  of  floor  even  for 
a few  hogs. 

The  curb  as  shown  in  Figure  1 will  prevent  hogs  from  working  the  feed 
off  the  floor,  and  the  apron,  going  down  a foot  on  all  sides,  will  prevent 
them  from  rooting  underneath.  Pitch  the  floor  34  inch  1°  the  foot  toward 
a concrete  gutter  along  one  side.  Finish  the  surface  with  a wooden  trowel 
or  float  which  will  leave  it  rough  enough  to  prevent  slipping.  For  the 
proper  proportions  of  concrete  see  general  instructions- on  page  5.  Divide 
off  the  floor  into  slabs  not  more  than  6 feet  square  providing  divisions 
clear  through  each  at  the  joints. 

*Detailed  directions  for  the  care  of  concrete  work  in  winter  will  Jbe  found  in  “Concret- 
ing in  Cold  Weather”  Rural  Edition,  published  by  this  company. 


— 7 — 


Concrete  in  the  Barnyard 


A 5-inch  concrete  floor  24  x 36  feet,  without  curbs  and  aprons,  using 
a 1:2:3  mixture,  will  require  about  93  sacks  of  cement,  7 cubic  yards 
of  sand  and  1034  cubic  yards  of  stone.  Do  not  let  the  hogs  on  the  floor 
until  it  is  quite  hard,  as  they  will  ruin  the  surface  of  the  green  concrete. 


Hog  Wallows 

The  concrete  hog  wallow  is  needed  by  every  hog  raiser.  It  accomplishes 
two  things.  Hogs  will  lie  in  the  water  to  cool  off  when  warm,  and 
the  wallow  provides  a practical  scheme  for  killing  vermin  when  crude 
oil  or  other  disinfectant  is  added  to  the  water.  The  wallow  serves 
as  a dipping  vat  and  saves  the  trouble  of  dipping,  if  a small  amount 
of  oil  is  kept  in  the  wallow  at  all  times.  The  crude  oil  stays  on  the 
surface  of  the  water  and,  therefore,  will  not  escape  through  the  outlet. 
It  serves  also  to  keep  the  skin  of  the  animals  in  good  condition. 

Location,  Locate  the  wallow  near  the  water  supply.  If  from  a spring 
the  water  may  flow  through  the  pool  continuously  but  if  from  a tank  the 
wallow  should  be  emptied  and  refilled  at  intervals.  A good  plan  is  to  drain 
the  outlet  to  the  nearest  line  of  tile. 

Construction,  The  general  shape  and  construction  of  a good  wallow 
is  shown  in  Figure  6.  It  is  most  convenient  to  make  the  pool  rectangular 
with  rounded  corners  and  a depth  of  not  over  18  inches.  A pool  15  to  20 
feet  long  and  10  feet  wide  will  be  found  amply  large.  A concrete  floor 
4 feet  wide  laid  around  the  wallow  will  prevent  the  hogs  from  burrowing 
under  or  carrying  in  mud. 


Z slope  oufword 


4-' -O' 


Slope  IM^  Woven  wire- 


Ap 


roo 


ijj.  drain'- 


ll nds  grooved 

4.  to  1-0-  slope  to  drains 

*:  V O O - . Q 


nr  mrnvfr.1  * \ 


G ''well  lamped  cinders  cr  gravel 

i:z:3  concrete 


Figure  6.  Partial  Sectional'View  of  a Concrete  Hog  Wallow.  The  wallow  is  simply  a big  con- 
crete bowl  with  a floor  4 feet  wide  around  the  edge. 


Barnyard  Pavements 

After  you  have  used  a concrete  feeding  floor  no  argument  will  be  needed 
for  a concrete  pavement  in  the  barnyard.  It  is  a great  convenience  and 
saving  of  labor.  It  gives  plenty  of  room  for  feeding  stock,  piling  straw 
and  manure  and  improves  the  sanitary  condition  of  the  barnyard. 


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Universal  Portland  Cement  Co. 


Construction.  The  barnyard  floor  is  easy  to  build  and  is  so  similar 
to  the  feeding  floor  that  the  same  instructions  will  cover  this  work.  See 
page  7.  It  is  simply  a feeding  floor  large  enough  to  cover  the  entire  barn- 
yard. It  is  a good  plan  to  study  out  the  changes  you  intend  to  make  in 
the  future  in  the  layout  of  the  yard  and  the  position  of  small  buildings 
and  tanks  before  placing  the  pavement,  for  a concrete  floor  is  hard  to  move. 

Providing  for  Fu- 
ture Tank . If  you 

plan  to  build  a con- 
crete stock  tank  later, 
leave  a space  for  it 
in  the  barnyard,  run- 
ning the  pavement 
around  the  area 
needed  for  the  tank 
foundation,  and  mak- 
ing provision  for  the 
necessary  piping.  The 
opening  should  be 
one  inch  larger  each 
way  than  the  outside 
dimensions  of  the 
tank. 

Figure  7.  A ramshackle  bam  and  submerged  barnyard  where  __  „ , 

dust,  dirt  and  filth  abound.  A recent  epidemic  of  infantile  paralysis  SlOD€S  • If  the 

near  Chicago  was  traced  to  a filthy  cow  stable  and  even  more  filthy  i , • i «n 

bamyard.  barnyard  is  on  a hill- 


Figure  8.  Clean  buildings  and  a bamyard  pavement  of  concrete.  Dry  and  sanitary  365  days  a 
year.  This  pavement,  on  the  farm  of  H,  Stillson  Hart,  Barrington,  111.,  has  paid  for  itself  each  year 
in  a saving  of  labor  alone. 

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Concrete  in  the  Barnyard 


side,  grade  this  down  to  give  the  floor  as  gentle  a slope  as  possible.  It 
must  not  slope  more  than  1 foot  in  10  without  roughing  off  the  surface  to 
prevent  slipping. 

Dairy  Barn  Floors 

Design . Figure  10  shows  a sectional  view  and  elevation  of  a cow  barn 
floor  with  manger  and  gutter  moulded  in  concrete.  It  is  planned  for 
adjustable  steel  stanchions  and  the  length  of  the  stall  is  that  needed  for 
cows  of  average  size.  You  can  adjust  the  stanchions  considerably  with 
most  makes. 

Construction . In  laying  the  floor  follow  the  general  instructions  of 
the  preceding  pages.  You  should  lay  the  floor  in  front  of  the  manger  first, 
which  should  be  18  inches  above  the  level  of  the  floor  or  drive  back  of 
the  gutter.  It  should  be  a single  course  slab  5 inches  thick  and  sloped 
J^-inch  per  foot  toward  the  manger.  Level  the  forms  to  obtain  this 
slope. 

Manger  and  Curb,  The  next  section  to  be  laid  is  the  manger  and 
curb  which  should  be  6 inches  thick,  building  up  the  curb  so  as  to  extend 
about  10  inches  above  the  surface  of  the  stall  floor.  Put  up  a rigid  plank 
to  form  the  side  of  the  curb  and  build  a template  as  shown  in  Figure  11, 
to  bring  the  manger  to  shape.  Put  a little  extra  mortar  on  the  surface 
and  finish  it  with  a steel  trowel,  leaving  the  surface  quite  smooth.  Some 
of  the  barn  equipment  companies  furnish  guide  bars,  bent  to  proper  curv- 
ature, for  building  the  manger,  in  which  case  a template  is  dispensed  with 
and  the  manger  shaped  with  a strike  board  handled  parallel  to  the  curb. 


Figure  9.  A model  cow  bam  with  concrete  floor  at  Jerseyville,  Illinois,  where  cows  are  easily  kept 
clean  and  healthy  and  the  owner  retains  his  self-respect.  Appetizing,  wholesome  milk  is  produced  here. 

— 10  — 


Universal  Portland  Cement  Co 


Before  placing  tLe  concrete  for  the  curb,  set  in  the  stanchion  supports 
or  bolts,  spacing  them  accurately.  Finish  off  the  curb  smooth  to  prevent 
injuring  the  necks  of  the  animals. 


— li  — 


Concrete  in  the  Barnyard 


Stall  Floor.  Lay  the  floor  between  the  manger  and  the  gutter  next. 
It  is  a plain  slab  6 inches  thick  with  an  apron  14  inches  deep  next  the 
gutter.  Figure  10  shows  the  first  14  inches  of  the  stall  floor  (next  the 
manger)  to  be  z/i  inch  lower  than  the  rest.  This  keeps  bedding  at  the 
head  of  the  stall,  forming  a cushion  for  the  cows’  knees.  Beyond  this  point 
the  floor  is  sloped  downward  1 inch.  The  distance  from  manger  to  curb 
is  4 feet  8 inches. 


Gutter.  Next 
place  the  gutter  and 
the  floor  back  of  it. 

Make  the  gutter  20 
inches  wide,  which 
allows  easy  cleaning 
with  a wide  shovel. 

Do  not  make  it  more 
than  3 inches  deep. 

Pitch  the  gutter  one 
inch  toward  the  back 
so  that  the  moisture 
can  drain  away  from 
the  cows.  Pitch  the 
floor  back  of  the  gut- 
ter %-moh  t°  the  foot 
toward  the  gutter. 

Make  the  surface  of 
the  gutter  smooth 
with  a steel  trowel, 
using  a little  mortar 

for  the  surface.  All  other  parts  of  the  work,  except  the  manger  and  curb. 


Figure  12.  Dilapidated  bam  surrounded  by  accumulated  mud 
and  filth.  A poor  investment  because  it  wastes  farmers’  time,  causes 
extra  labor,  impairs  the  health  of  live  stock  and  farmer’s  family, 
and  carries  disease  to  the  consumers  of  farm  products. 


Figure  13.  A door  yard  of  concrete,  conveniently  used  as  a feeding  floor.  Costs  but  little  in  time 
and  money,  has  paid  for  itself  in  convenience  alone,  and  prevents  waste  of  feed. 

— 12  — 


Universal  Portland  Cement  Co. 


should  be  finished  with  a wooden  float  and  brushed  with  a broom  to  make 
the  surface  rough. 

Hog  House  Floors 

A concrete  slab  rounded  up  to  the  walls,  sloped  to  a drain  and  free  from 
dips  and  hollows  is  the  only  sanitary  and  generally  satisfactory  floor  for 
a hog  house.  Such  a floor  can  be  kept  clean  easily  and  dries  out  quickly 
after  cleaning.  No  covering  is  needed  in  feeding  rooms  and  pens  not 
used  for  young  pigs.  Farrowing  pens,  however,  should  be  covered  with 
removable  board  mats,  made  of  2 x 4’s  spaced  of  an  inch  apart.  Build 
these  only  in  the  corner  of  the  pen  where  the  sow  lies  down  and  do  not 
nail  or  fasten  them. 

Sanitation.  Open  gutters  and  frequent  flushing  will  keep  the  floor 
sanitary.  Figure  14  shows  a good  design  for  the  gutter  in  a house  with 
a center  passageway  and  pens  on  both  sides.  A single  row  of  pens  will 
require  only  one  gutter.  Use  a template  such  as  shown  in  Figure  14. 

Construction.  Make  hog  house  floors  6 inches  thick,  of  1:2:3  con- 
crete. Finish  off  the  surface  with  a wood  float  and  roughen  it  with  a 
broom. 

774^ 


lore 


Figure  14.  Type  of  Open  Drain  and  Template  for  Forming  the  Gutter. 


Figure  15.  Hog  Feeding  Floor,  near  Qelwein,  Iowa. 

-13- 


Concrete  in  the  Barnyard 


Stock  Tanks  {Rectangular) 

A concrete  floor  around  a watering  tank  makes  it  more  accessible  and 
sanitary.  The  tank  should  always  be  placed  on  or  next  the  concrete 
floor.  Stock  tanks  are  generally  made  rectangular  but  sometimes  circular. 
Forms  for  the  rectangular  shape  are  easier  to  make  but  contractors  often 
build  circular  forms  for  repeated  use. 

Dimensions  for  Rectangular  Tanks . The  table  below  shows  the 
proper  dimensions  for  rectangular  tanks,  their  capacity,  and  the  quantities 
of  materials  required.  Figure  16  shows  a typical  layout  for  a tank  and 
floor. 


Dimensions  and  Materials  for  Rectangular  Tanks . 


Capacity 

in 

Barrels 

DIMENSIONS  FOR 

FIGURE  16 

MATERIALS 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

F 

K 

Sacks 

Cement 

Cu.  ft. 
Sand 

Cu.  ft. 
Gravel 

56 

16' 

8' 

211'' 

2 '2" 

6" 

4" 

9" 

39 

75 

98 

48 

16' 

7' 

“ 

i i 

6" 

4" 

9" 

35 

68 

89 

40 

16' 

6' 

ii 

ii 

6" 

4" 

9 " 

31 

60 

80 

42 

14' 

7' 

a 

i i 

6" 

4 " 

9" 

31 

60 

80 

34  U 

14' 

6' 

a 

ii 

6" 

4" 

9" 

28 

54 

71 

28 

14' 

5' 

i < 

i i 

6" 

4" 

9" 

24 

47 

62 

31 

12' 

6' 

2 '10" 

i i 

5" 

3" 

8" 

21 

40 

52 

25 

12' 

5' 

ii 

i i 

5" 

3' 

8" 

18 

35 

46 

193 4 

12' 

4' 

i i 

i i 

5" 

3" 

8" 

15 

30 

39 

21 

10' 

5' 

i i 

i i 

5" 

3" 

8" 

15 

30 

39 

16 

10' 

4' 

ii 

ii 

5" 

3" 

8" 

13 

26 

33 

11 

10' 

3' 

i i 

i i 

5" 

3" 

8" 

11. 

21 

27 

IZVv 

8' 

4' 

2'9" 

i i 

4" 

2" 

7" 

9 

17 

22 

9% 

8' 

3' 

i i 

i i 

4" 

2" 

7" 

7 

14 

18 

7 

6' 

3' 

ii 

ii 

4" 

2" 

7" 

6 

11 

14 

5V2 

6' 

ZW 

i i 

ii 

4" 

2" 

7" 

5 

10 

12 

Outside  Floor . If  the  floor  is  not  in  place,  proceed  as  follows:  First 
lay  the  necessary  pipes,  setting  them  well  below  frost  line.  Then  with 
the  sub-base  of  the  floor  and  tank  prepared  as  already  described  on  page 
5,  build  the  floor  around  the  tank.  Make  the  center  opening  about  1 inch 
larger  all  around  than  the  tank  itself.  The  floor  should  be  sloped  away 
from  the  tank  and  divided  into  sections  not  over  6 feet  square,  as  shown 
in  Figure  16. 

Forms.  The  tank  forms  are  simple  in  construction  and  can  be  built 
in  convenient  units  while  the  floor  is  hardening.  Figure  17  shows  the  forms 
constructed  of  1-inch  timber  with  2 x 4-inch  braces  and  stiffeners.  The 
outer  form  is  made  the  same  height  as  the  tank  above  the  floor — this  should 
not  exceed  3 feet  and  30  inches  is  preferable.  It  is  built  in  four  separate 
sections  which  can  be  nailed  together  at  the  corners  when  needed.  The 
inner  form  is  made  equal  in  height  to  the  depth  of  the  tank  and  is  set  in  an 
inclined  position  so  as  to  give  a batter  on  the  inside  of  the  tank  wall.  The 
inside  form  with  braces  should  be  nailed  together  complete  so  that  it  can 
be  lifted  into  position  after  the  floor  of  the  tank  as  been  placed. 


— 14  — 


Universal  Portland  Cement  Co. 


Forms  made  of  lumber  not  thoroughly  dried  keep  their  shape  better 
than  those  of  dry  material.  If  well  seasoned  lumber  is  used,  it  would  be 
better  during  dry  weather  to  sprinkle  the  forms  thoroughly  before  they 
are  assembled.  Wetting  the  surface  against  which  the  concrete  is  to  be 


placed  helps  to  keep  the  water  in  the  concrete  and  prevents  the  latter 
from  sticking  to  the  forms,  making  removal  easier.  Equal  parts  of  boiled 
linseed  oil  and  kerosene  will  be  found  a good  dressing  for  forms  and  reduces 
warping. 

Mixture . When  the  floor  has  sufficiently  hardened,  proceed  with  the 
construction  of  the  tank  proper.  To  assemble  the  four  sections  of  the  outer 
tank  forms  in  position,  as  shown  in  Figure  17,  forms  should  extend  over 
the  edge  of  the  floor  3^-inch  all  around  so  that  when  the  tank  is  completed 
no  part  of  it  will  rest  upon  any  of  the  outer  floor  slabs.  This  will  be  made 
clear  by  reference  to  Figure  18.  When  the  forms  for  the  tank  are  ready, 
mix  the  concrete  in  the  proportions  of  1:2:3,  using  enough  water  to  give 
a “quaky”  consistency. 

Construction,  Fill  in  the  form  about  3 inches  deep  and  then  place 
the  floor  reinforcing.  This  should  consist  of  a net-work  of  34-inch  round 
rods  placed  9 inches  on  centers  both  lengthwise  and  crosswise  of  the  tank, 
or  heavy  wire  mesh  may  be  used  in  place  of  the  rods  if  more  convenient. 
Carry  the  floor  reinforcing  into  the  walls,  as  shown  in  Figure  18.  Next  fill 
in  with  concrete  until  the  thickness  of  the  tank  floor  is  equal  to  K as  given 
in  the  table  on  page  14.  Strike  the  concrete  off  level  and  apply  a little 
1 :2  cement  mortar  around  the  edge  of  the  tank  floor  for  a width  of  about 
two  inches  greater  than  the  distance 
between  the  inner  and  outer  forms. 

This  will  insure  a watertight  connec- 
tion between  the  tank  floor  and  walls. 

Trowel  the  tank  floor  smooth. 

Then  place  the  inside  form  in  posi- 
tion, supporting  it  from  the  2x4 
cross  braces  which  are  lightly  nailed 
across  the  outside  form  so  as  to  keep 
a uniform  distance  between  the  two 
forms  at  all  points.  If  the  inner 
form  touches  the  floor  at  any  point 


Figure  18.  Method  of  Joining  Walls  of 
Tank  to  Floor. 


— 16  — 


Universal  Portland  Cement  Co, 


remove  the  mortar  top  so  as  to  give  a clearance  of  about  %-inch  all 
around.  A 1:2  cement  mortar  should  then  be  placed  between  the  forms 
and  worked  until  it  flushes  through  and  is  even  with  the  inner  face  of 
the  inside  form.  If  this  layer  of  mortar  is  at  least  1 inch  thick  it  will 
insure  a watertight  joint.  If  using  rods  as  reinforcing,  a }^-inch  round  or 
square  rod  should  now  be  embedded  in  the  mortar,  2 inches  from  the 
outer  form  and  running  all  the  way  around  the  tank.  Lap  the  reinforcing, 
if  more  than  one  piece  is  necessary,  for  a distance  equal  to  64  times  the 
diameter;  for  a 34-inch  rod  this  would  be  16  inches.  Make  the  lap  on  a 
side,  not  at  a corner.  Then  place  8 inches  of  concrete  in  the  form  and  place 
another  rod  as  before.  Another  eight  inches  will  bring  the  concrete  within 
an  inch  of  the  top  of  the  forms.  Then  another  reinforcing  rod  and  an 
inch  layer  of  cement  mortar  spread  over  the  top  completes  the  tank.  It 
is  well  to  make  the  edges  of  the  wall  round  by  running  an  edger  along 
the  inner  and  outer  forms  after  the  concrete  has  partially  hardened,  re- 
quiring that  the  cross  braces  supporting  the  inside  form  be  removed. 

Removal  of  Forms,  The  forms  should  not  be  removed  until  the  con- 
crete has  hardened  sufficiently  to  prevent  damage.  Under  favorable  con- 
ditions the  inner  form  of  the  tank  may  safely  be  removed  in  two  or  three 
days,  but  the  outer  form  should  remain  on  for  a week. 

In  cool  weather  longer  time  must  be  given,  as  the  concrete  hardens 
more  slowly.  While  hardening,  the  concrete  should  be  protected  from 
rapid  drying  in  warm  weather  and  freezing  in  cold  weather,  which  would 
prevent  its  gaining  proper  strength.  The  work  should  be  examined  care- 
fully, as  too  early  removal  of  the  forms  results  in  broken  edges  and  cor- 
ners, if  not  in  more  serious  defects  which  will  detract  much  from  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  tank. 

Stock  Tanks  ( Circular ) 

Because  of  its  shape,  a circular  tank  will  resist  freezing  better  than  a 
rectangular  tank.  The  circular  form  of  tank  gives  a greater  capacity  for 


— 17  — 


Concrete  in  the  Barnyard 


the  same  amount  of  material,  yet  the  forms  are  difficult  to  construct  and, 
therefore,  somewhat  expensive.  If  several  farmers  will  buy  a form  to  use 
jointly  in  building  several  tanks  it  may  be  wise  to  use  a circular  form, 
but  one  farmer  alone  had  best  use  the  rectangular  shape. 

Tank  Form . The  form  shown  in  Figure  19  was  designed  by  Alfred 
Olson  of  Elkhorn,  Wis.,  and  has  been  successfully  used  for  many  years. 

Construction . The  construction  of  a round  tank  can  be  carried  on 
as  already  described  for  rectangular  tanks  if  the  opening  left  in  the  center 
of  the  surrounding  floor  is  made  circular  and  2 inches  greater  in  diameter 
than  that  of  the  diameter  of  the  proposed  tank.  If  it  is  found  more  con- 
venient to  make  the  opening  rectangular,  however,  then  a foundation 
slab  should  be  constructed,  filling  this  area  to  the  level  of  the  surrounding 
floor.  This  slab  should  be  reinforced  with  wire  mesh. 

Build  the  square  foundation  slab  2 inches  greater  in  size  than  the  pro- 
posed tank.  Place  2 inches  of  concrete  in  the  forms ; place  a layer  of  wire 
mesh  over  the  whole  surface  and  fill  with  concrete  up  to  the  proposed  level 
of  the  surrounding  floor.  The  concrete  should  be  struck  off  and  can  be 
trowelled  smooth  on  the  corners  which  the  tank  will  not  cover.  Next  build 
an  outside  floor  as  already  described.  This  may  be  round  if  the  entire 
barnyard  is  mot  to  be  floored,  but  a rectangular  floor  is  the  simpler  con- 
struction. 

The  form  for  the  tank  should  then  be  placed  after  the  floor  has  had 
sufficient  time  for  hardening,  and  the  succeeding  steps  are  identical  with 
those  for  a rectangular  tank. 


CIRCULAR  CONCRETE  STOCK  TANK 

~,th  RECTANGULAR  CONCRETE  PLATFORM. 


Figure  20.  Layout  for  a Circular  Stock  Tank  with  rectangular  floor  surrounding  it. 


Small  Troughs 

Advantages  of  Concrete . Steel  or  iron  troughs  quickly  leak  or  rust. 
Wood  troughs  absorb  moisture,  become  sour  and  rot.  Small  troughs  of 
concrete  are  easily  built,  using  odds  and  ends  of  lumber  for  forms,  and 


-18  - 


Universal  P o r 1 1 a n e me  n t Co. 

are  permanent  and  sanitary.  The  troughs  shown  in  Figure are  good 
types  for  general  use  about  the  barnyard. 

Casting  Troughs  Upside  Down . Sketch  “B”  in  Figure  fl  shows 
a form  for  casting  a trough  upside  down  using  an  earth  core.  It  is  a good 
plan  to  work  on  a concrete  floor  or  on  a level  plat  of  ground  a little  larger 
than  the  trough.  Build  up  the  core  approximately  of  the  shape  wanted, 
using  plastic  earth  or  clay  and  shaping  it  with  a template.  Make  the 
bottomless  box  for  the  outer  form  and  hold  it  in  place  by  stakes,  if  work- 
ing directly  on  the  ground,  or  if  working  on  a concrete  floor  hold  it  in  place 
with  weights  or  braces. 

Work  the  core  up  to  the  exact  shape  wanted  so  as  to  give  a uniform 
thickness  in  the  concrete  walls.  The  height  of  the  core  will  be  equal  to 
the  depth  of  the  trough.  When  pouring  concrete  into  the  mold  use  a 
shield  so  that  the  fresh  concrete  will  not  knock  off  pieces  of  the  core,  making 
the  inner  surface  rough. 

Sketch  “D  ” shows  a similar  trough  except  that  a wooden  core  had  been 
used  instead  of  earth  and  both  inner  and  outer  forms  set  on  a wooden  pal- 
let instead  of  on  the  ground. 

Template  Method.  The  trough  shown  in  Sketch  “E”  can  be  easily 
cast  on  a wooden  pallet  or  in  place  on  a slab  foundation  of  a concrete  floor. 


Reinforcing . The  reinforcing  for  troughs  consists  either  of  wire  mesh, 
J^-inch  iron  rods  or  both.  If  the  tank  is  cast  as  in  Sketch  “E  ” and  is  not  to 
be  moved  wire  mesh  is  sufficient.  But  otherwise  there  should  be  three  rods 
in  the  base,  1 inch  from  the  surface. 


REINFORCED  concrete:  troughs 


Figure  21.  Concrete  Troughs  which  are  efficient,  at  the  same  time  simple  to  construct. 


— 19  — 


Concrete  in  the  Barnyard 


Manure  Pits 

Bulletin  No.  34  by  the  Missouri  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  dis- 
closes an  amazing  loss  in  manurial  value  due  to  the  common  practice  of 
throwing  manure  out  where  the  moisture  will  run  off  or  be  evaporated 
out  by  the  sun.  The  Bulletin  says  in  part:  “The  common  method  of 
storing  manure  usually  results  in  a loss  of  one-third  or  more  of  its  value 
by  leaching.  Moreover  the  materials  thus  leached  out  are  the  most  sol- 
uble and  therefore  the  most  available  portion  of  the  manure.  All  three 
of  the  valuable  elements,  viz. : nitrogen,  phosphoric  acid  and  potash,  are 
affected  by  this  leaching  process.”  The  same  Bulletin  says:  “It  is  be- 
lieved that  more  than  half  the  manure  produced  in  Missouri  is  wasted,” 
and  places  this  waste  at  no  less  than  $75,000,000  annually. 

Value  of  Liquid  Manure.  Authorities  have  commonly  estimated 
that  one-half  of  the  value  of  barnyard  manure  is  found  in  the  liquids. 
This  being  true,  it  becomes  necessary  at  the  outset  to  adopt  some  plan 
by  which  this  may  be  saved.  The  concrete  manure  pit  immediately  sug- 
gests itself  as  the  most  convenient  and  economical  scheme  for  the  storage 
of  manure. 

Common  Types  of  Pits.  Two  types  of  pits  are  in  common  use,  the 
first  consisting  merely  of  a flat  concrete  floor  surrounded  by  concrete 
walls  and  the  second  having  sloping  floors,  draining  into  a sump  or  tank. 
The  first  type  is  the  easier  to  construct,  and  if  protected  from  the  sun  it 
preserves  the  liquids  of  the  manure  which  would  otherwise  be  lost  by  seep- 
age, evaporation  and  firing.  The  second  type  possesses  the  advantage  of 


Figure  22.  _ Sanitary  concrete  manure  pit  on  the  Beach  Farm  Dairy,  Coldwater,  Michigan,  where 
all  the  manure  is  saved,  including  the  liquid  content.  Saves  labor  in  handling  the  manure,  and  odors 
and  flies  are  kept  away  from  the  cow  stable.  R.  C.  Angevine,  builder. 


-20- 


V 

Universal  Portland  Cement  Co . 


Figure  23.  The  fumes  from  this  manure  pile  enter  the  dairy 
barn  through  the  windows,  contaminating  the  milk.  One  method 
of  spreading  contagious  disease. 


draining  the  val- 
uable liquid  off  the 
manure,  to  be 
pumped  out  and 
sprinkled  over  the 
fields  by  means  of 
a liquid  manure 
spreader. 

Either  type  of 
pit  may  be  im- 
proved b y com- 
pletely screening 
in,  excluding  flies 
which  would  other- 
wise breed  in  the 
manure  and  carry 
contamination  to 
milk  and  other  food 
products. 


General  Notes  on  Manure  Pit  Construction 

The  height  of  the  pit  walls  should  not  exceed  4 feet,  giving  a depth  of 
about  3 feet  inside  the  pit  for  manure.  Shallower  or  deeper  pits  interfere 
with  the  bacterial  action  and  are  less  efficient. 

Allow  50  feet  of  manure  pit  surface  for  each  full  grown  head  of  stock. 
Locate  the  pit  near  the  cattle  barn  to  shorten  the  haul  of  litter,  but  not 
within  100  feet  of  the  milk  or  dairy  house.  Build  up  the  walls  thicker  at 
the  base  than  at  the  top  with  the  outer  surface  perpendicular.  This  taper 
helps  in  packing  the  manure.  Round  out  the  corners. 

Mixtures  for  Concrete . Concrete  for  the  walls  of  pits  should  be 
of  a 1:2J^:4  mixture.  One  cubic  yard  will  require  5j^  sacks  of  cement, 
14  cubic  feet  of  sand,  22  cubic  feet  of  screened  gravel  or  stone.  Concrete 
for  all  floors  and  for  the  roof  and  walls  of  manure  pit  cisterns  should  be 
made  of  a 1 :2 :3  mixture  and  1 cubic  yard  will  require  7 sacks  of  cement, 
14  cubic  feet  of  sand  and  21  cubic  feet  of  screened  gravel  or  stone.  For 
all  of  this  work  concrete  should  be  mixed  wet  enough  so  that  it  will  flatten 
out  from  its  own  weight  when  piled,  but  will  not  flow  readily. 


Pit  without  Liquid  Manure  Cistern 

A simple  manure  pit  without  sump  or  cistern  is  practically  a small  sec- 
tion of  common  barnyard  floor  surrounded  by  four  concrete  walls  4 feet 
high  and  having  a slight  taper  outward.  Locate  such  a pit  in  the  shade 
of  the  barn  or  else  build  a roof  over  it.  Make  an  opening  in  the  walls  so 
that  a wagon  or  spreader  can  be  driven  into  the  pit. 

Construction . Make  the  walls  10  to  12  inches  in  thickness  without 
reinforcing.  Build  them  down  below  frost  line  and  3 to  4 feet  above  the 


— 21  — 


Concrete  in  the  Barnyard 


ground  level.  Figure  24  shows  a convenient  form.  If  the  sides  are  longer 
than  50  feet  place  a vertical  joint  in  the  wall  to  provide  for  expansion 
and  contraction  with  weather  changes.  This  may  be  done  by  setting 
a board  vertically  in  the  form  with  a small  tapered  strip  nailed  to  the 
center,  as  shown  in  Figure  25.  The  board  is  removed  when  the  concrete 
has  set  and  the  next  section  cast  directly  against  the  first. 

Forms.  If  there  is  plenty  of  old  lumber  available  build  a complete 
form  so  that  concrete  may  be  cast  continuously.  It  will  be  more  eco- 
nomical, however,  to  build  sectional  forms  casting  each  side  separately. ' 
One-inch  boards,  dressed  on  one  side,  lightly  nailed  to  2 x 4’s  16  inches 
apart,  make  a satisfactory  form  and  if  the  faces  are  brushed  with  crude  oil 
or  whitewashed  they  are  easily  removed.  If  a roof  is  to  be  built  make  pro- 
vision for  anchoring  supports  into  the  walls  before  the  concrete  is  placed. 

The  concrete  surfaces  will  be  improved  by 
spading  the  mixture  back  from  the  forms  by  means 
of  a sharpened  2 x 4 or  a spade.  This  brings  the 
finer  materials  to  the  face  of  the  form  and  makes  a 
smoother  surface. 

After  the  walls  are  sufficiently  hardened  a single 
course  floor  should  be  laid  following  the  methods 
given  on  page  5. 


Figure  25.  Method  of 
joining  foundation  walls 
where  it  is  necessary  to 
leave  an  expansion  joint, 
or  where  concreting  has 
been  discontinued  for  any 
reason. 


Figure  24.  Form  for  Building  Manure  Pit  Walls. 


— 22  — 


Universal  Portland  Cement  Co, 


s 


Manure  Pit  with  Cistern 


A concrete  manure  pit  provided  with  sloping  sides,  a floor  and  a cistern 
into  which  the  liquid  drains  is  shown  in  Figure  28,  page  24.  The  tables 
on  page  24  give  the  dimensions  needed  for  several  sized  herds. 


Locate  the  pit  far  enough  away  from  milk  house  or  creamery  and  set 
stakes  to  show  the  limits  of  the  excavation.  Then  make  the  excavation 

for  the  manure  pit 
floor  and,  as  the 
cistern  should  be 
built  first,  dig  the 
pit  for  this  part  of 
the  work.  Unless 
the  ground  is  stiff 
enough  to  act  as 
the  outside  form 
for  the  cistern,  the 
pit  must  be  dug 
three  feet  wider  and 
longer  than  the 
outer  dimensions 
of  the  cistern  when 
completed,  to  give 
room  for  building 
the  forms.  The 
depth  should  be  8 

Figure  26.  Type  of  cheap  makeshift  dairy  bam  and  exposed  feet  below  the  top 

manure  pile.  An  inefficient  and  unsatisfactory  plant  for  the  owner  p ,1  i , 1 

and  a menace  to  the  public  health.  OI  tUe  Completed 


Figure  27.  Concrete  manure  pit  at  the  Bum-Brae  Hospital,  Primos,  Pa.  An  efficient  structure 
of  reinforced  concrete. 


— 23  — 


Concrete  in  the  Barnyard 


RE/NFORCED  CONCRETE  MANURE  P/T 
W/TH  SCREENS  AND  CONCRETE  ROOF 

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e-o 


A | 

A 


STANDARD 

HEAD 

DIMENSION 

C 

DIMENSION 

D 

10 

3 

5 

20 

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5 

30 

8 

3 

40 

9 

6 

30 

/O 

7 

ic 


MAN.'-tOLi 

$3 


T/lE, 


lli 


n 


Plan  of  Manure  Pit  with  Cistern  for  liquid  manure. 


Aj± 


tA 


STANDARD 

HEAD 

LENGTH 

A 

LENGTH 

B 

to 

20 

JO 

20 

40 

30 

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60 

30 

40 

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30 

Sectional  View  B-B  of  Manure  Pit  with  Cistern. 

Figure  28.  Reinforced  concrete  manure  pit  with  screens  and  concrete  roof. 


— 24  — 


Universal  Portland  Cement  Co . 


cistern.  Lay  the  cistern  floor  6 inches  thick,  as  shown  in  the  lower  sec- 
tional drawing.  This  floor  is  reinforced  with  Jkg-inch  round  rods  spaced  7 
inches  apart  and  run  in  both  directions.  This  reinforcing  should  be  laid 
down  and  wired  at  all  intersections  and  the  ends  should  be  bent  up  on  all 
sides  so  that  they  will  extend  up  into  the  walls  not  less  than  30  inches. 
The  rods  should  be  made  ready  on  the  ground  outside,  3 inches  of  con- 
crete placed  for  the  floor,  the  rods  then  set  in  place  and  the  remaining  3 
inches  of  concrete  placed  immediately.  Trowel  the  surface  smooth  except 
a narrow  strip  along  the  edge,  on  which  the  walls  will  rest,  which  should  be 
left  quite  rough. 

Place  the  inner 
wall  forms  as  soon 
as  the  floor  has 
hardened  suffi- 
ciently to  support 
the  weight  of  a 
person  and  before 
it  has  dried  out. 
The  inner  forms 
should  be  placed 
in  position  first, 
taking  great  care 
to  brace  them  se- 
curely, especially 
at  the  bottom. 
Stand  on  a wide 
board  while  work- 
ing on  the  floor. 

Reinforcing  rods 
should  then  be  put 
in,  first  wiring 
the  vertical  rods 
to  those  extending 
up  from  the  floor,  then  wiring  the  horizontal  rods  to  the  verticals.  Three- 
eighths-inch  rods  spaced  7 inches  apart  both  vertically  and  horizontally 
will  be  used  for  the  walls  the  same  as  for  the  floor. 

After  the  reinforcing  rods  are  placed,  the  outer  forms  should  be  put  up 
and  securely  braced  against  the  surrounding  earth.  The  cistern  wall  on 
the  side  next  to  the  pit  will  be  carried  up  to  form  a part  of  the  pit  wall 
itself  at  that  point  and  all  forms  except  the  outer  form  on  the  side  next  to 
the  pit  should  be  carried  perpendicular  to  the  cistern  roof.  The  outer  form 
should  be  carried  up  perpendicular  to  a point  on  a level  with  the  bottom  of 
the  pit  floor,  and  then  tapered  toward  the  top  of  the  wall,  since  this  sec- 
tion is  a part  of  the  sloping  wall  of  the  pit.  Place  a 6-inch  tile  or  pipe  as 
shown  in  the  lower  sectional  drawing  to  conduct  the  liquid  manure  from 
the  pit  to  the  cistern. 

The  form  for  the  cistern  roof  should  also  be  put  in  place  (supported 
on  the  top  of  the  inner  forms  for  the  cistern  walls),  a frame  being  provided 
for  a manhole  opening  2 feet  4 inches  in  both  dimensions,  made  circu- 
lar or  square  as  preferred.  After  the  forms  have  been  carefully  inspected 


Figure  29.  An  old  style  bam  with  a filthy  yard.  In  dry  weather 
the  yard  is  dusty  and  the  wind  carries  into  the  milk  an  enormous 
amount  of  repulsive  dirt.  In  wet  weather  the  yard  is  a mass  of 
filth.  Filthy  barnyards  cause  filthy  disease-infected  stock. 


— 25- 


Concrete  in  the  Barnyard 


to  make  sure  that  the  bracing  is  ample  and  all  the  joints  tight,  place  the 
concrete  (of  a “quaky”  consistency),  taking  care  to  carefully  spade  the 
larger  particles  back  from  the  surface  of  the  forms  by  the  use  of  a narrow 
chisel-edged  board,  spade  or  a steel  tool  especially  designed  for  the  pur- 
pose. The  vertical  reinforcing  rods  in  the  walls  should  be  bent  over  into 
the  roof  and  spliced  to  the  roof  reinforcing  which  also  consists  of  J^-inch 
rods,  7 inches  apart,  the  same  as  for  the  floor  and  walls.  Concrete  of  the 
same  mixture  used  in  the  walls  should  be  placed  on  the  roof,  taking  care  to 
lodge  the  reinforcement  not  more  than  \}/2  inches  from  the  lower  surface. 
The  upper  surface  should  be  given  a slope  of  one  inch  (away  from  the  pit) 
and  should  be  troweled  smooth  to  carry  off  the  water.  If  in  an  exposed 
position  the  roof  should  be  protected  from  the  sun  for  several  days  by  a 
covering  of  straw  or  earth  kept  constantly  damp. 

Pit  Walls.  The  walls  of  the  pit  should  next  be  constructed,  using  con- 
crete of  the  same  proportions  used  in  other  parts  of  the  work.  No  rein- 
forcement is  necessary  for  the  wall  itself.  The  footings  for  the  walls  should 
go  down  below  frost  line,  a depth  of  3 feet  below  the  surface  usually  being 
sufficient.  The  pit  walls  should  extend  at  least  6 inches  above  the 
ground  line  to  prevent  surface  water  from  entering. 

The  necessary  filling  and  grading  should  then  be  done  for  the  pit  floor 
and  the  ground  in  all  fills  well  compacted.  It  is  advisable  to  cover  all 
ground  which  has  been  disturbed  with  four  or  six  inches  of  gravel  or  cinders 
to  protect  the  floor  against  possible  settling. 

Floor.  The  floor  slab  may  next  be  laid  in  one  course  six  inches  thick, 
using  the  proportions  specified  above.  Three  inches  of  concrete  should 


Figure  30.  Concrete  barnyard  pavement  and  stock  tank  on  the  Ed.  Harvey  farm,  La  Fox,  Illinois. 
A permanent  improvement  which  will  yield  big  returns  in  saving  of  feed  and  labor,  not  to  mention  the 
sanitary  advantages. 


— 26  — 


Universal  Portland  Cement  Co. 


first  be  laid  down  over  the  entire  surface  of  the  floor.  Cover  this  with  style 
No.  32  triangle  mesh  reinforcement  and  immediately  add  the  balance  of 
the  concrete.  The  floor  surface  should  be  protected  against  sun  in  the 
same  manner  as  described  for  the  cistern  roof. 

A narrow  floor  or  apron  is  often  constructed  around  the  outside  of  the 
pit  for  the  purpose  of  making  it  more  accessible  for  animals  which  are  driven 

into  the  p i t to 
tramp  down  the 
manure  and  also 
to  prevent  the  ad- 
mission of  ground 
water.  Such  aprons 
may  be  made,  in 
single  course  work, 
30  inches  wide  and 
6 inches  in  thick- 
ness and  may  be 
given  a drop  of 
1 inch  in  4 away 
from  the  pit  walls.. 
These  aprons 
should  be  con- 
structed in  the 
same  manner  as  the 
pit  floor  except  that 
they  will  require  no 
reinforcing,  and 
they  must  be  divid- 
ed into  slabs. 

Columns  and  Roof.  A reinforced  concrete  roof  and  screened-in 
sides  are  very  desirable  although  not  entirely  necessary,  adjuncts  to  the 
manure  pit.  The  roof  slab  may  be  supported  by  concrete  beams  13  inches 
deep  by  10  inches  wide,  resting  on  a system  of  10x1 0-inch  columns.  The 
column  foundations  will  have  to  be  laid  and  the  columns  themselves  built 
before  constructing  either  the  pit  walls  or  the  floor.  These  foundations 
should  be  on  firm  ground,  their  tops  at  least  12  inches  below  the  proposed 
floor  level,  and  they  should  be  2 feet  square  by  12  inches  deep.  Since  the 
pit  walls  will  be  constructed  as  panels  between  the  columns,  recesses 
into  which  the  walls  will  be  keyed  should  be  left  in  the  columns.  These 
can  be  made  as  shown  in  Figure  35,  but  should  only  extend  from  the  bot- 
tom to  the  top  of  the  pit  wall  itself. 

The  columns,  beams  and  roof  slabs  are  all  reinforced,  the  columns  with 
four  %-inch  rods  placed  one  near  each  corner  and  the  beams  with  two^-inch 
round  rods  and  one  J^-inch  round  rod  placed  between  them,  one  inch  above 
the  bottom  as  shown  in  the  small  sectional  view  at  the  lower  right  hand 
corner  of  Figure  24. 

The  center  rod  in  each  beam  will  be  bent  up  as  shown  in  the  lower  sec- 
tional view.  Each  slab  is  9 feet  10  inches  by  8 feet  10  inches  between  cen- 
ters of  supports,  and  is  4 inches  thick.  The  reinforcing  consists  of  ^-inch 


Figure  31.  Manure  pits  where  flies  breed  and  disease  germs  multi- 
ply— 75  per  cent  of  the  fertilizer  value  lost  by  leaching  and  firing. 
Owner  prohibited  from  supplying  milk  to  the  City  of  Chicago. 


-27- 


Concrete  in  the  Barnyard 


round  rods  spaced  5^  inches  center  to  center  perpendicular  to  the  beams 
and  placed  inches  from  the  bottom  of  the  slab.  On  top  of  these  are 
similar  rods  spaced  9j^  inches  center  to  center  parallel  to  the  beams. 
Further  directions  for  the  construction  of  reinforced  concrete  columns, 
beams  and  roof  slabs  will  be  found  in  “Small  Farm  Buildings  of  Concrete,” 
a copy  of  which  will  be  sent  you  free  of  charge  upon  application  to  any 
office  of  this  company. 


Barnyard  Walls 

A concrete  wall  around  the  barnyard  forms  a shelter  from  winter  winds 
and  considerably  improves  the  appearance  of  the  yard.  A concrete  wall 
is  inexpensive,  easy  to  build,  will  never  need  repairs,  will  support  heavy 
gates  and  is  far  preferable  to  a fence. 

The  barnyard  wall  may  be  of  columns  and  slabs,  of  blocks  or  of  cement 
plaster  construction  and  should  be  5 to  6 feet  high  with  a coping  at  the 
top  for  appearance.  Figure  32  shows  a wall  of  column  and  slab  construc- 
tion. The  columns  are  8 inches  square,  reinforced  with  four  3^2-inch  round 


Universal  Portland  Cement  Co. 


rods  and  are  spaced  12  to  14  feet  apart.  The  slabs  are  4 inches  thick,  rein- 
forced with  triangle  mesh  reinforcement,  Style  No.  42,  or  heavy  fencing, 
and  are  made  to  fit  into  vertical  recesses  in  the  coLumns.  They  are  sup- 
ported on  a light  concrete  curbing. 

Column  and  Slab  Wall . Cast  the  columns  first,  in  place  or  on  the 
ground,  in  a mold  like  that  shown  in  Figure  35.  The  columns  should  be  3 
feet  longer  than  the  height  of  the  wall  above  the  ground  and  vertical 
recesses  2 inches  deep,  2%  inches  wide  at  the  surface  and  2j^  inches  wide 
at  the  bottom  extend  from  the  bottom  of  the  columns  to  the  inside  of  the 
coping,  23^2  inches  from  the  top.  Similar  recesses  should  be  placed  on  op- 
posite sides  of  each  column  of  the  line  posts  and  on  adjacent  sides  of  the 
corner  posts. 

Construction . Take  care  to  have  the  columns  perfectly  level  and 
in  true  alignment.  Build  a curb  8 inches  wide  and  12  inches  deep  between 
the  columns  and  extending  4 inches  above  the  ground.  This  will  act  as  a 
foundation  for  the  slab.  No  form  is  necessary  for  this  other  than  light 
boards  held  in  place  by  stakes. 

The  slab  forms  are  shown  in  Figure  33.  Build  these  of  2-inch  lumber, 
the  face  boards  being  planed  on  the  side  next  the  concrete.  Make  the 
length  of  the  slab  forms  equal  to  the  clear  distance  between  columns.  Three 
vertical  braces  fastened  to  the  face  boards  with  heavy  wood  screws  should 
make  the  sections  rigid.  Hold  the  two  forms  in  place  by  means  of  six 
3/2-inch  bolts,  15  inches  long.  Nail  vertical  strips  on  the  ends  of  the  face 
boards  to  hold  the  form  in  position,  securing  them  rigidly  to  the  columns. 

Slab  Reihforcing.  When  the  forms  are  in  position  place  triangle 
mesh  reinforcement  between  the  forms  so  that  it  will  be  in  the  center  of 


Figure  35.  Section 
of  Post  cast  in  place 
showing  Forms  and 
Clamps. 


— 29 


Concrete  in  the  Barnyard 


the  completed  slab.  Cut  off  the  reinforcement  into  lengths  equal  to  the 
length  of  the  slabs  and  roll  it  backwards  so  that  it  will  be  straight  when  placed 
between  the  forms.  Hold  it  near  the  center  by  means  of  spacers  of  light 
boards  which  can  be  drawn  out  as  the  concrete  is  placed. 

Form  the  coping  by  nailing  two  strips  along  the  upper  edge  of  the  forms 
as  shown  in  Figure  34.  This  will  make  a coping  extending  2 inches  beyond 
the  surface  of  the  wall  and  as  wide  as  the  column.  The  coping  will  have 
a height  of  2 inches  at  the  sides  and  for  drainage  should  be  troweled  off 
so  as  to  make  it  somewhat  higher  in  the  center. 

Mixtures  and  Consistency . Mix  the  concrete  in  the  proportion  of 
1:23^:4.  Use  stone  ranging  from  inch  to  1 inch.  The  concrete  should 
be  wet  enough  to  flatten  out  under  its  own  weight.  A chisel-shaped 
2 x 4 or  a spade  worked  vertically  along  the  surface  of  the  form  as  the 
concrete  is  placed  will  bring  the  finer  particles  to  the  surface,  leaving  it 
smooth  and  without  air  pockets  or  holes.  Protect  the  wall  from  sunshine 
and  keep  it  damp  for  several  days  after  completion. 


Concrete  and  the  Requirements  for  Certified 
Milk  Production 

Safeguarding  the  food  supply  in  large  cities  is  becoming  an  increasingly 
difficult  problem,  but  the  results  obtained  are  worth  the  effort.  It  may 
seem  that  the  farmer  producers  have  to  stand  more  than  their  rightful 
share  of  the  additional  cost  of  producing  clean  milk  and  yet  this  is  hardly 
true.  Clean  milk  should  and  eventually  will  bring  more  money  than  that 
produced  under  unwholesome  conditions  and  if  this,  is  not  now  universal 
the  tendency  is  in  that  direction. 

The  production  of  certified  milk  is  practically  confined  to  the  big  dairy 
farmers  where  the  most  refined  methods  can  be  adopted  without  adding 
such  a large  cost  per  cow  for  sanitary  conveniences.  At  the  same  time, 
the  physical  equipment,  such  as  concrete  stable  floors  with  their  gutters 
and  mangers,  the  milk  house  with  its  concrete  cooling  troughs  and  the 
the  manure  pit,  is  practically  identical  for  the  production  of  certified  milk 
and  of  common  milk,  if  the  farmer  has  due  regard  for  the  lives  of  those 
by  whom  his  product  is  used.  Especially  is  this  true  when  milk  is  used 
by  invalids  and  infants.  There  is  a growing  feeling  of  pride  on  the  part 
of  progressive  farmers  in  the  low  bacterial  count  of  their  milk  and  the 
clean  and  wholesome  appearance  of  their  stables. 

There  are  many  dairy  plants  now  furnishing  milk  to  condenseries  or 
to  city  distributors,  who  could,  with  a small  additional  outlay,  furnish 
certified  milk.  Some  of  the  physical  requirements  are  as  follows: 

1 — “The  stable  shall  be  so  constructed  as  to  facilitate  the  prompt 
and  easy  removal  of  waste  products.  The  floors  and  platform 
shall  be  of  cement  or  other  non-absorbent  material  and  the  gutters 
of  cement  only.” 

There  is  no  more  economical  material  for  stable  floors  than  concrete 
and  it  is  sufficiently  good  for  the  highest  grade  of  product. 

— 30  — 


Universal  Portland  Cement  Co. 


2 — “The  inside  surface  of  the  walls  and  all  interior  construction  shall 
be  smooth  with  tight  joints  and  shall  be  capable  of  shedding 
water.” 

* In  other  words,  concrete  floors,  walls  and  ceilings  are  good  and  sufficient. 

% 3 — “The  cow  stable  shall  be  provided  with  adequate  ventilation 

each  cow  to  be  provided 

with  a minimum  of  600  cubic  feet  of  air  space.” 

4 —  “A  sufficient  number  of  windows  shall  be  installed  and  distributed 
so  as  to  provide  satisfactory  light  and  a maximum  of  sunshine; 
two  feet  square  of  window  area  to  each  600  cubic  feet  of  air  space 
representing  the  minimum.” 

5 —  “All  necessary  measures  should  be  taken  to  prevent  the  entrance 
of  flies  and  other  insects,  and  rats  and  other  vermin  into  the  build- 
ing.” 

In  other  words,  the  floors  must  be  of  concrete  to  prevent  the  harboring 
of  rodents. 

6 —  “Soiled  bedding  and  manure  shall  be  removed  at  least  twice  daily 
and  the  floors  shall  be  swept  and  kept  free  from  refuse.” 

It  is  impossible  to  keep  a wood  floor  swept  clean.  Concrete  is  easily 
swept,  is  easily  flushed  and  makes  the  best  looking  floor  that  can  be  built 
at  reasonable  cost. 

7 —  “Manure,  when  removed,  shall  be  drawn  to  the  field,  or  tempo- 
rarily stored  in  containers  so  screened  as  to  exclude  flies.” 

While  this  section  does  not  demand  a concrete  manure  pit  to  store  * 
the  surplus,  yet  there  is  only  one  material  to  use,  in  the  opinion  of  those 
who  have  studied  the*  problem.  Concrete  makes  a water-tight  wall  and 
floor  which  retains  100%  of  the  fertilizer  value  and  the  cost  of  concrete 
is  not  heavy. 

8 —  “The  dairy  building  shall  be  kept  clean 

and  the  floors  shall  be  graded 

and  water-tight.” 

This  would  permit  the  use  of  expensive  marble  for  floors  but  concrete 
is  the  only  practicable  material.  While  plastic,  it  can  be  graded  to  drains 
and  it  is  water-tight. 

These  are  some  of  the  clauses  of  the  contract  made  by  the  Chicago 
Medical  Society  Milk  Commission  with  each  dairy  whose  product  receives 
its  certification,  but  they  may  profitably  be  put  into  use  by  every 
i dairy  farmer.  These  are  not  expensive  improvements  and  considering 
that  they  mean  so  much  in  the  quality  of  milk,  and  that  the  time  is  shortly 
^ coming  when  milk  will  be  sold  on  a quality  basis,  it  behooves  the  farmer 
to  make  his  new  construction  conform  to  the  highest  present  standards. 

^ This  will  not  cut  heavily  into  his  profits  but  should,  in  a short  time,  mean 
greater  profits  by  increasing  both  the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  product. 


It  isn’t 

enough  to 
say  just 
“Cement” 


Ask  for 

“UNIVERSAL” 


